You spotted it the moment you walked in — that adorable panel fabric calling your name from across the shop. You couldn't resist, and honestly, we don't blame you. But now it's sitting on your cutting table and you're wondering: Now what?

Panel quilts are one of quilting's best-kept secrets. They're approachable, fast, and endlessly creative. At Quilt Expressions, we love helping quilters turn that irresistible panel into a quilt they'll treasure. Here's our step-by-step guide to making it happen beautifully.

Step 1: Measure Your Panel

Before you cut a single strip, take a moment to assess your panel. Some panels feature one dramatic central motif; others come loaded with a main scene plus a collection of smaller motifs scattered around the edges. Both are wonderful to work with — they just need slightly different approaches.

Trim out the main panel and write down the measurements. Yes, actually write them down! This number will drive every decision you make from here.

Step 2: Frame Your Panel to a Multiple of 6"

Here's where the magic formula comes in. We love building panel quilts around 6½" blocks (which finish at 6"), so the goal is to frame your panel until its finished dimensions are divisible by 6. Here's the easiest way to calculate your framing strips:

For the length:

1. Take the panel length and subtract ½" for seam allowance.
2. Determine how many inches you need to add to reach the next multiple of 6.
3. Divide that number by 2, then add ½" for seam allowance.
4. That's the width of your top and bottom framing strips. Cut two strips to that width, each as long as the panel's width.

For the width: Repeat the same process using the panel's width measurement. The length of those side strips will be the new total length of your panel (after you've already attached the top and bottom strips).

A real-life example: Say your panel measures 21½" × 31½".

For the length: 31" (minus ½") needs 5" added to reach 36. Half of 5 is 2½", plus ½" = 3" strips. Cut two strips at 3" × 21½" and sew one to the top and one to the bottom. Your panel is now 36½" long.

For the width: 21" (minus ½") needs 3" added to reach 24. Half of 3 is 1½", plus ½" = 2" strips. Cut two strips at 2" × 36½" and sew to each side.

Your framed panel is now perfectly sized to receive a surrounding border of 6" blocks. Simple!

All seams are ¼" throughout this project.

Option 1: Use Those Extra Motif Blocks

If your panel came with bonus small motifs (many do!), don't set them aside. These little gems are perfect for creating coordinating blocks to surround your framed center.

The goal is to frame each motif until it's also a multiple of 6 inches, so it plays nicely with the rest of your layout. Here's how:

• Start with a 2½" framing strip around each motif. If the motif is very small, frame it twice.
• Sew strips to the top and bottom first, then to the sides.
• Using a 6½" square ruler, angle the block slightly to give it a "wonky" look (more on that in a moment!), then trim to exactly 6½". Make sure you have at least ½" of framing fabric on all sides and corners.
• Not into wonky? That's perfectly fine — just trim them square and move on.

Remember to include your ¼" seam allowance when trimming. These blocks will mix beautifully with filler blocks to frame your center panel.

Option 2: Make Wonky Star Blocks

One of our favorite companion blocks for panel quilts is the Wonky Star. These 6½" stars have loads of personality and use up scraps beautifully.

What you need per star:

• Eight 2½" squares from one background fabric (four corners + four star point backgrounds)
• One 2½" square in a contrasting color for the center
• Eight 2" × 3" rectangles in contrasting scraps for the star points

To make the star points:

1. Place a 2" × 3" contrasting rectangle across a background square at an angle, right sides together.
2. Sew a ¼" seam along the edge of the rectangle.
3. Fold the rectangle over and press.
4. From the back, trim the excess to square the unit to 2½".
5. Repeat on the other side of the same background square using a second rectangle — the second piece should slightly overlap the first star point.
6. Make 4 star point squares total. For extra interest, make your points slightly different sizes!

Sew your nine-patch star together with points facing outward. Your finished block should measure 6½" square.

Option 3: Try Crazy Blocks for Scrappy Fun (Makes 30 Blocks!)

If you want to incorporate a lot of fabrics — and have a stash that's seen better days — Crazy Blocks are your answer. You'll need six different ¼-yard cuts of fabric and a little freezer paper.

The process:

1. Draw an 8" square on freezer paper, then divide it into 5 areas using straight cuts. This is your master cutting template — do not cut it!
2. Trace the template onto five more 8" squares of freezer paper.
3. Stack your six fabrics right sides up. Align the five templates on the stack (leaving ½" between each) and cut out five stacks of 8" squares.
4. Cut each stack using the template guidelines to create segments.

The shuffle (this is the fun part):

• Segment 1: Don't shuffle.
• Segment 2: Move the top fabric to the bottom.
• Segment 3: Move the top two fabrics to the bottom.
• Segment 4: Move the top three fabrics to the bottom.
• Segment 5: Move the top four fabrics to the bottom.

Each stack layer now has five different fabrics! Sew each block back together in reverse order (5, 4, 3, 2, 1), matching inside edges as best you can. Press seams to one side, then trim each block to 6½". You'll end up with 30 unique, scrappy blocks.

Option 4: Add Wonky Box Squares for More Variety

These sweet little blocks add a polished, structured accent to your layout:

1. Cut a 2" square from a solid color fabric (wonky cut is just fine!).
2. Cut a 2½" strip from light background fabric; subcut into two 2½" × 2" pieces and two 2½" × 6" pieces.
3. Sew the short pieces to the top and bottom of the solid square; press toward the square.
4. Sew the long pieces to the sides; press toward the square.
5. Angle and trim to 4½" using a square ruler.
6. Cut a 2½" strip from a contrasting fabric; subcut into two 2½" × 4½" pieces and two 2½" × 8" pieces.
7. Sew the shorter pieces to the top and bottom; press away from the block.
8. Sew the longer pieces to the sides; press away from the block.
9. Angle and trim to 6½" square.

Step 3: Fill Any Gaps with Spacer Blocks

Don't panic if your layout math doesn't work out perfectly — spacer blocks are the quilter's secret weapon! A spacer can be as simple as a single strip of coordinating fabric or a small checkerboard of scraps.

To calculate a spacer, measure the gap you need to fill and add ½" for seam allowances. The key is to use several spacers if you need them, so they look intentional rather than accidental. (Because they absolutely are intentional. You planned this all along.)

Step 4: Add a Final Border

To finish off your panel quilt, add a simple one-fabric border:

1. Measure through the center of your quilt lengthwise (not along the edges — borders will stretch if you measure the edges).
2. Cut two side border strips to that measurement and attach them.
3. Measure the quilt width through the center, including the attached side borders.
4. Cut top and bottom borders to that measurement and attach.

This method ensures your quilt lies flat and square.

You've Got This!

Panel quilts are a wonderful way to let the fabric do the talking while you build your piecing skills with fun, varied blocks. Whether you go all-in on Wonky Stars, scrappy Crazy Blocks, or a simple framed design, the result will be a quilt as unique as you are.

Have questions? We're always happy to help you plan your layout, choose coordinating fabrics, or troubleshoot your math. Stop by the shop, schedule an appointment, or give us a call at 208-407-4656. Happy quilting from the QE Sewing Corner! 🧵